For my 30th birthday I received a generous gift from my sister with one stipulation; it could only be used for solo travel. She knew I’d been seriously considering a solo trip and it was just the push I needed to finally commit. The following January I was off to Costa Rica, exploring volcanoes and waterfalls, relaxing in natural hot springs, watching the sunset on the beach, and engaging with locals and fellow travelers.
Volcanoes and Waterfalls in Rincon de la Vieja National Park
I flew from Washington, DC to Liberia, located in the northwestern part of Costa Rica. Home for the first part of the trip was the Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin, a resort located a few miles from the entrance to Rincon de la Vieja National Park and a 40 minute drive from the airport. I reserved a ride to the hotel through the Liberia Airport Shuttle and despite fight delays plus an additional hour to get through immigration, my driver was waiting when I exited the airport and swiftly got me to my destination. On the resort grounds was a short trail that led to a lookout point. In one direction you could see the Rincon de le Vieja Volcano and from the other, the Pacific Ocean. It was a perfect location to catch my first Costa Rican sunset.
I spent my first morning in Costa Rica exploring the Rincon de la Vieja National Park [$15 entrance fee]. The park is approximately 3 miles from the resort, and the resort offers a free shuttle service to and from the main entrance. When I booked this trip, I was most excited to explore the volcano. Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other ideas. The hiking tour to the volcano crater was suspended indefinitely due to the volcanic activity and when I arrived at the park, I learned that the Las Pailas Trail, a 2+ mile loop around the base of the volcano, was also mostly closed. I opted to explore the areas that were still open, and quickly detected evidence of the volcanic activity including strong sulfur smells, steam vents, and areas where the ground was so hot, the mud was bubbling.
Since most of the trail was closed, I decided to hike the opposite direction into the rainforest to the La Cangrejera Waterfall. The 10km round-trip hike was a little difficult due to some steep inclines and large tree roots and rocks along the path, but the forest was dense and provided shade which was a welcomed relief from the hot sun. It was mid-morning when I arrived at the waterfall, and I was fortunate enough to share it with only two other people.
The next day started with an easy hike to Las Chorreras Waterfall, located near the resort entrance. This trail is mainly flat and proved to be a nice leisurely morning activity. I spent the late morning hours reading by the pool (R&R is mandatory while on vacation) then set off to see the La Oropendola Waterfall and the Rio Negro Hot Spring. To access the trail to the waterfall, take the resort shuttle to the entrance of the Rincon de la Vieja National Park, where you’ll spot signs pointing to the entrance for the trail to La Oropendola. [TIP: This hike starts right outside of the park, so no park fees! Look for the entrance in the park parking lot.] The hike to La Oropendola is short, and the falls are beautiful and secluded. Even in the middle of the afternoon, I was the only person there. The shuttle stops at the Rio Negro Hot Springs on the way back to the resort. The hot spring entrance is included with your stay at Hacienda Guachipelin, so make sure you take full advantage of it! Paint yourself with volcanic clay, rinse it away, and then slip into one of the several hot spring pools. After two days of hiking, your body will thank you!
From the Mountains to the Beaches
As I approached the mid-way part of my trip, I shifted gears from adventure and exploration to relaxation mode and headed to Nosara, a west coast beach town known for great surfing. I utilized the resort’s airport shuttle, but rather than going to the airport, I was dropped at Cafe Europa, a little cafe across from the airport with an outdoor biergarten. I’d booked a ride with Gypsy Cab Nosara for the two-and-a half-hour trip from the Liberia Airport to the Gilded Iguana Surf Hotel in Nosara, and this was their pick-up spot for anyone not arriving via plane. Be warned, Gypsy Cab will give you a time frame to expect their arrival, but an employee at the cafe alerted me that they tend to be late, and my shuttle arrived about 20 minutes past the provided arrival window.
Sand and Sun in Nosara
I spent the next morning exploring my new town: finding good spots for food and locating where to go for my surf lesson. Nosara is split into two areas but it’s a short walk between the two sections. However, it’s not well lit so I’d advise roaming by foot during the day and utilizing a cab service at night. The rest of the day was spent at the beach. If you’re spending the day on the beach do yourself a huge favor and be sure to re-apply sunscreen. The ocean water is very warm and inviting, and the sun is much stronger than it feels. Trust me.
There are several smaller beaches connected by trails in Nosara and I made sure to carve out some time to explore them. I didn’t have an end destination in mind, but followed a series of trails with a Canadian couple I encountered and eventually found myself standing on the top of a cliff staring down at a black sand beach where the Nosara River meets the Pacific Ocean.
That afternoon, I cashed in on my Christmas present from my surfer brother-in-law and nephews: a surf lesson at Coconut Harry’s. My instructor, Jose, was great. I’d never surfed before but I was riding the [baby] waves in no time!
I made the most of my final day of vacation walking around town, spending a few hours on the beach, relaxing by the pool, and taking in one last sunset. The restaurant at Gilded Iguana had a band that night and I snagged the last open table under the stars and listened to some music while I ate dinner. I wound up sharing my table with a fellow solo traveler from Canada, with whom I spent hours swapping travel stories. I couldn’t have planned a more perfect way to spend my final evening in Costa Rica.
Returning to Liberia
The Gypsy Cab Nosara arrived bright and early the next morning to make the trek back to Liberia. Booking transportation with them was seamless and so much easier than trying to rent a car and navigate the roadways. The roads near the major cities aren’t terrible, but they can get a little rough in the smaller towns and there are some sections where the road suddenly goes from pavement to dirt.
Was It Worth It?
Costa Rica was the perfect place to dive into solo travel. The people were extremely friendly, and though Spanish is the native language, many spoke English and I encountered very few communication issues. There was never a time that I felt unsafe. It was the perfect combination of adventure and relaxation and I couldn’t have imagined a better way to kick-off the next decade of my life!
