Last month my family took our first family vacation in nearly 10 years. A 10-day exploration of all things Scotland. Go big or go home, right? I guess you could say we were making up for lost time. Family vacations look a little different these days. We’ve gone from a family of four to a family of eight; my parents, myself, my sister, her husband, and their three young boys: 3-year-old twins and a 10-month-old. I’d never taken a big trip with kids and had NO idea what to expect.
We began planning Scotland in October. The first priority was to nail down the regions we’d visit and lodging. We didn’t want to take any chances with a group of our size. Luckily, we hit the jackpot and found the most adorable cottage for our week in Inverness on Airbnb and a perfect flat at the base of Edinburgh Castle on VRBO for our final stop in Edinburgh.
We flew British Airways from Washington Dulles to Glasgow. We were shocked (and thrilled) at how much cheaper it was to fly into Glasgow compared to Edinburgh and Inverness. If you’re thinking about a Scotland adventure, check out flights here. Edinburgh and Glasgow are only about an hour apart from each other. You may save yourself some significant cash, which you’ll obviously use to treat yourself while you’re there!
Our first day was a blur of attempting to install car seats (seriously, why is it so difficult to install those things?! Maybe it was the rental car…or the operator…) and attempting to stay awake until it was a reasonable bedtime. We traveled from Glasgow to Crianlarich, a scenic one-hour drive through Trossachs National Park and around Loch Lomond, where we’d scored a few rooms at the Crianlarich Hotel. It had been a long time since most of us were in a vehicle in the UK and some acclimating was required by all to adapt to driving on the opposite side of the car and the opposite side of the road. The boys wanted to hike – what kind of psycho toddlers request to climb mountains on only a few hours of sleep?!- so we found a short trail with lookout points of the Crianlarich area. It was enough to satisfy the kid’s need for adventure (at least for one day) and to keep the adults powering through. Crianlarich is a very small town with only a few food options. We dined on fish and chips, chicken curry, and steak pies at The Rod and Reel pub. It was one of the best meals we had during the whole trip. Everyone was asleep by 7.
The next day we were off to Inverness. There are a few routes from Glasgow to Inverness, and we specifically picked the one that goes through Glencoe for the views. We stopped near The Three Sisters mountain range for a little outside time. What a beautiful area. I’d love to go back and really explore The Three Sisters. At our next stop, we sipped on pints and enjoyed some beautiful scenic views while we munched on traditional Scottish fare at Clachaig Inn. On our final leg to Inverness, we detoured at Fort William to see the Glenfinnan Viaduct because, well, Harry Potter. Yep, you probably recognize it from shots of Harry and friends heading to Hogwarts. Fun Fact: There are many links to Harry Potter throughout Scotland (scenes from Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban were shot at Clachaig Inn). I even stumbled across a blog on how to see all the Harry Potter sites in the UK (yes, I read it. Yes, I got ideas from it. No, I’m not ashamed.).
Inverness was our home base for the next 5 days. We explored the Eilean Donan Castle and the Fairy Pools on Isle of Skye. Unfortunately, it rained while we were on Isle of Skye so we were unable to really see all the island has to offer, but hey, what’s a trip to Scotland without a little rain?! Wet weather in Scotland is not uncommon so if you’re traveling there, bring your rain gear (even if your weather app says there’s no rain in the forecast, as mine did. Liar, liar…). On a positive note, thanks to all the extra water, the falls were raging so it was totally worth the trip. I’ll be returning to Isle of Skye someday (and giving myself more than one day to really explore it!).
We explored the Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns (Outlander fans, these stops are definitely for you!), ate homemade Scottish cheese and ice cream at Connage Highland Dairy, walked the streets of Inverness, and headed to Speyside to visit distilleries. Quick distillery note: If you wish to sample, book a tour. We quickly learned that most distilleries are not equipped with tasting areas. Lucky for us, Strathisla is one of the few with a tasting room and we had an incredible experience tasting three drams: Strathclyde Single Grain, Strathisla 12-year-old Single Malt, and Chivas Regal 18-year-old. I thoroughly enjoyed the Strathisla 12 and Chivas Regal 18, both of which made the trip back to the states with me. Strathisla is the oldest continuously working distillery in the Highlands. It’s located in a valley along River Isla thus its name – Strath, Gaelic for a large river valley, and Isla, the river which runs through the valley. If booking a tour, plan in advance – they sell out!
My favorites of our Highlands destinations were the Urquhart Castle which we visited on our 4th day in Inverness and the Leault Farms Working Sheepdog demonstration, which was our last outing before leaving the Highlands for Edinburgh. The ruins at Urquhart Castle are beautifully situated along Loch Ness. This was a win for everyone, as the kids enjoyed searching for Nessie and the adults enjoyed exploring the ruins (not to mention it was a perfect 68 degrees and sunny that day- not exactly typical Scotland weather). The sheepdog demonstration was a last-minute find by my sister that turned out to be the highlight of the trip. The level of training and discipline these dogs have is mind-blowing. The demonstration included watching the dogs maneuver the sheep, sheep shearing, a Q&A portion, bottle feeding lambs, and playing with collie pups. Four to eight-week-old puppies…need I say more?!
We wrapped up our trip in Edinburgh. I love everything about the architecture in this city. Old Town is uniquely gothic and medieval and as you walk around, you almost feel like you’re back in time (until you pass the next tour group or souvenir shop…). On the other hand, New Town, which isn’t exactly “new” as it was built in the 18th century during the Georgian era, boast neoclassical buildings, green open spaces, and gardens. Old and New Town are absolutely stunning and I recommend carving out some time to explore both. We spent our final days wandering along the Royal Mile and Victoria Street, climbing a portion of Arthur’s Seat, strolling through Dean Village, and taking in all the sites the city has to offer.
The historical sites weren’t all we enjoyed, though. On our first evening, my sister, brother-in-law, and I sipped on the most creative cocktails at Panda and Sons, a gin bar fashioned after a prohibition-era speakeasy. Note: This bar is hidden so keep your eye out for it. And should your bill be accompanied by a business card for another establishment, don’t ask questions, just go. You’re welcome in advance.
On the last night, I celebrated a successful trip with a table for one at the modern and sleek Castle Terrace, sister restaurant to Michelin star recipient The Kitchen. The chef’s tasting menu and wine pairing were divine. Every course included a piece of Scottish fare- salmon from Shetland, spelt from Eden Valley, cod from the North Sea, Ayrshire pork, and each culinary presentation (8 total) were accompanied with a wine pairing that complemented the dish perfectly. I sipped on wines from France, Chile, Morocco, New Zealand, and Spain. It allowed me the opportunity to step out of my comfort zone and try foods I’d never had before (ox tongue, anyone?). The experience exceeded all expectations. The food was to die for and the service was impeccable. If you’re in Edinburgh and looking for a nice evening out, I highly recommend snagging reservations at this nature to plate establishment at the base of the Edinburgh Castle.
We departed Scotland via the Glasgow Airport, about an hour’s drive from Edinburgh. The rental car return process was seamless and besides being at the airport so early we couldn’t check in yet, we had no issues heading home. Despite all of the research I did before the trip, I was not prepared for exactly how beautiful Scotland is (or how long the days are – this time of year sunrise is around 4:30 am and sunset is around 10 pm). If you’re even slightly considering visiting this region of the United Kingdom, stop thinking about it and do it! Between the beautiful mountain ranges, bright blue lochs, numerous castles, historic ruins, and world-renowned distilleries, there is something for everyone. Throw in the incredibly friendly Scots and fresh, locally sourced food and you have the perfect next adventure!
